Eldorado Peak Glacier Mountaineering Course

Glacier Mountaineering Leadership

Do you want to learn the skills to travel on glaciers and reach remote summits? Join me on a trip to Eldorado Peak, a glaciated mountain tucked in the heart of North Cascades National Park. On this four day backcountry trip, we’ll cover essential mountaineering skills and make a summit attempt of the iconic “knife edge” of Eldorado’s East Ridge. 

The trip at a glance…

  • Learn skills like snow travel, self arrest, crevasse rescue, and more!

  • Dates: July 10th-13th

  • Max 3:1 climber to guide ratio

  • Cost: $1200 for 4 day trip 

The classic knife edge ridge on the summit of Eldorado Peak
At Eldorado Peak's High Camp
Climbers with mountaineering gear get ready for the summit climb
Climbers practice building snow anchors and other mountaineering skills
Climbers at high camp before climbing the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak
Climbers on the glacier with the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak in the background
Climbers taking in the view after a successful summit of Eldorado Peak

Trip Itinerary…

Day One: 

  • Meet in Marblemount, WA for a gear check, drive to trailhead

  • Hike to low camp and set up camp 

  • Learn skills: knots and hitches, snow anchors, fitting crampons, navigation and camp craft 

Day Two: 

  • Pack up camp to move to high camp 

  • Snow school on the way to high camp: self arrest practice, snow travel, roping up for glacier travel, basic glaciology 

  • Set up camp at high camp

Day Three: 

  • Crevasse rescue lesson and practice

  • Glacier travel navigation 

  • Prepare for summit climb attempt 

Day Four: 

  • Summit attempt on the East Ridge of Eldorado

  • Pack up camp and hike out 

  • Say goodbyes at the trailhead! 

Hiking to low camp on Eldorado Peak
Brushing teeth at high camp on Eldorado Peak
Descending after climbing the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak

Mountaineering Skills Learned

  • Participants will learn the essential skills needed to climb glaciated peaks. After this course, students will have practiced: 

  • Snow travel and self arrest

  • Use of ice ax and crampons

  • Roping up for glacier travel and glacier navigation 

  • Crevasse rescue and snow anchors

  • Backcountry navigation and route finding 

  • Snow camping, depending on conditions

What’s Included: 

  • Group climbing gear: ropes, pickets, rescue gear

  • Group camping gear: tents, stoves and kitchen equipment

  • Dinners and breakfasts while in the field 

  • Mountaineering instruction and guiding 

  • Backcountry permits for North Cascades National Park

Climber Guidelines 

Mountaineering can be physically demanding and requires carrying heavy loads over long distances. This course will be a good challenge for you if you: 

  • Have basic backpacking skills and experience: you can pack an overnight pack and have prepared meals in the backcountry. 

  • Can carry a 40-50 pound pack and complete a hike that gains up to 4000’ in elevation. 

  • No climbing or mountaineering experience necessary.

What’s not included: 

  • Transportation 

  • Lunch and snacks

  • Personal climbing gear: harness, helmet, ice ax, crampons, glacier rig, overnight pack, etc (packing list included) 

  • Personal clothing and camping gear

Contact me to sign up!

Fill out a form with any remaining questions or to reserve your spot on the trip. Space is limited! I’ll respond as quickly as I can :)